norskfisk

Ja, Chihirosen har app med programmeringsmulighet. Har lest mye om akvariedatamaskiner opp igjennom årene. Men det frister meg rett og slett ikke å sitte å debugge de greiene. Arduinoen derimot syntes jeg var gøy å jobbe med. Det er egentlig det viktigste. Så utrolig enkel og akkurat det jeg trengte. Komponentene er nesten gratis (hvis de ikke brenner ned huset selvfølgelig ). Det gikk så bra med bølgekontrolleren at jeg satte i gang med en foringsautomat med innebygget kjøleanlegg for å holde maten kald. Håper på å ha den klar når planktonsesongen begynner til våren. Da kan jeg ha anemoner, skjell og sjøpunger.

Her er noen bilder av utstyret: 1. DIY bølgekontroller i aluminiumsboks for brannsikkerhetens del. 2. Innsiden av DIY bølgemaskin: Arduino, Strømforsyning, releer, Jebao kontrollere. 3.UV filter 4. Ozonsystem 5.AmTop 3338 utvendig filter og lydisolert kasse for kjøleanlegg 6. Hele systemet i stuen.

Jeg bruker vanlig digital timer fra ClasOhlson til å styre lyset, og så setter jeg daglengden manuelt 0 til 3 ganger per måned. Kelvin: Bruker til enhver tid 50% Sylvania aquastar 10000K og 50% Sylvania Grolux planterør. Vet ikke helt hvilken Kelvin planterørene er. Jeg har kjøpt en Chihiros Vivid 2 LED lampe på 130 Watt (har ikke brukt den ennå). Til våren planlegger jeg å bruke kun den. Den har app kontroll med soloppgang/solnedgang funksjon og intensitets- og fargekontroll. Da tenker jeg å bare bruke den. Den er spesiallaget for planteakvarier. Ja, det er 3 Jebao SOW-8 på hver side av akvariet, 6 totalt. Den medfølgende kontrolleren står på konstant flyt, styrkenivå 2 (av 10 tror jeg), på alle pumpene. De styres med en DIY kontroller som lar den ene siden stå på i 13 sekunder, 3 sek pause, den andre siden på 13 sekunder og 3 sek pause. Skal ta et bilde av kontrolleren. Den er ikke noe vakkert syn, men den har funger 100% i mange måneder. Sagtangen vokser bra. Jeg må trimme den ned. Men den trives ikke 100%. Den blir stiv og ikke spesielt pen. Når den blir ca 20 cm lang blir den så stiv at strømmen i akvariet ikke klarer å bevege den skikkelig. Jeg tror den trenger kraftigere vannbevegelse enn jeg kan gi. Den kan ha andre behov også som f.eks har med vannkjemi i bølgesonen å gjøre, UV stråling, lysstyrke. Jeg vet ikke. Så den vokser, men forholdene er ikke ideelle. Nei, bruker ikke sump. Jeg bruker et AmTop 3338 utvendig filter. Det tok omtrent 4 måneder, men til slutt forsvant også proteinhinnen på overflaten. Så jeg har mye tro på slikt filter. Eneste problemet er at inntaket må renses hver dag om sommeren.

Takker! Bare spør, gøy å snakke om akvariet mitt Grunnen til at det er så reint nå om vinteren er at brune og grønne trådalgene forsvinner når de merker at dagene blir kortere. De overvintrer i en annen form. Du ser dem ikke i naturen heller på denne tiden av året. Jeg har 6x24 Watt (144 Watt) T5 lysrør. De 2 mørkeste månedene bruker jeg bare 48 Watt De 4 nest mørkeste månedene bruker jeg 96 Watt De 6 lyseste bruker jeg 144 Watt. Daglengdene, styrke, temp, hele året: 04 timer den: 20 jan (33% styrke), 5C 05 timer den: 2 feb (66% styrke), 5C 06 timer den: 13 feb (66% styrke), 6C 07 timer den: 24 feb (66% styrke), 6C 08 timer den: 7 mar (66% styrke), 7C 09 timer den: 18 mar (67% styrke), 8C 10 timer den: 28 mar (100% styrke), 8C 11 timer den: 8 apr (100% styrke), 9C 12 timer den: 19 apr (100% styrke), 10C 13 timer den: 30 apr (100% styrke), 11,C 14 timer den: 13 may (100% styrke), 12C 15 timer den: 25 may (100% styrke), 14C 14 timer den: 17 july (100% styrke), 15C 13 timer den: 12 aug (100% styrke), 16C 12 timer den: 22 aug (100% styrke), 18C 11 timer den: 3 sep (100% styrke), 17C 10 timer den: 13 sep (100% styrke), 16C 09 timer den: 25 sep (66% styrke), 15C 08 timer den: 6 oct (66% styrke), 14C 07 timer den: 17 oct (66% styrke), 13C 06 timer den: 28 oct (66% styrke),12 05 timer den: 8 nov (66% styrke), 10C 04 timer den: 21 nov (33% styrke), 9C 03 timer den: 8 dec (33% styrke), 8C Jeg måler nitrat og ammonium i vekstsesongen. Ellers bytter jeg 50% vann ca 1 gang per 6 uke.

Hei, Doserer plantenæring uten uten nitrogen og fosfor: https://www.cyberzoo.se/sv/articles/2.241.5455/happy-life-happy-plant-500-ml Doserer litt Tropica specialised nutrition (med nitrogen og fosfor): https://tropica.com/en/plant-care/liquid-fertilisers/specialised-nutrition/ Satt opp CO2 tank i sommer, men det blir så håpløst å holde pH-en riktig at jeg gav opp. For høy risiko i forhold til nytte!

Planktoniske børsteormer. Vet ikke så mye om dem. Kan være disse: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomopteris

Styresystemet heter FRM03 og er en 12V programmerbar timer modul med tre releer som man kan kjøpe for nesten ingen ting på Aliexpress. Man programmerer med knapper og display på selve kortet. I tillegg er det en 12V transformator og en kraftig doseringspumpe som er laget for væsker med små partikler. Også fra Aliexpress.

Så lang kom jeg

God ide med kjøleskapet. Tror det er den beste løsningen for kjøling. Min plan var å ha en beholder med vann som alltid var full og hadde et sikkerhetsoverrenn tilbake til akvariet. Og en kraftig doseringspumpe som pumpet vann begge veier. Først til akvariet for foring, og så tilbake til beholderen for å toppe opp med vann. Så en stor propell som gikk sakte i 5 sekunder før hver foring. Dermed ville det ikke sitte mat i slangen (mat klistrer seg fast i tynne slanger), maten ville ikke bli skadet av stadig omrøring. Og alt jeg behøvde å gjøre daglig var å ha i et par kuber med frossenfor.

Det beste ville være å alltid ha litt for i vannet. Jeg planla en automatisk frossenformaskin. Den ble dessverre veldig avansert med innebygget kjøleanlegg, omrøringspropell, doseringspumpe samt datamaskin for å styre hele greien.

Det er flere dvergrekearter å velge mellom. Kan også være thoralus cranchii eller eualus pusiolus.

Hei folkens, Vi kjøpte nytt hus og flyttet like etter den siste videoen jeg la ut i fjor, så jeg måtte ta ned akvariet som jeg startet i mars i fjor . Etter det har det vært beinhardt arbeid både på jobb og hjemme for å flytte inn med familien. Er sikker på jeg skrudde 1 million Ikea-skruer i 2020. Men nå begynner det å se lysere ut! Skal sette opp igjen samme akvariet i stuen i det nye huset. Har laget en lydisolert boks til kjøleanlegget! Forresten, nytt kjøleanlegg, DD DC-750. Kan aldri ha for mange kjøleanlegg .

They are copepods, yes. These are probably in the order harpacticoida. They ate micro algae growing on the glass in my algae refugiums.

Hey, the algae are Swedish! Bought on Biltema and Clas Ohlson!

Water gas and other gasses pass through anything with solvent (even water) in it while it dried. You can glue the glass in place with silicone, but use this as a sealant outside: Solvent free windscreen sealant I have actually tested this over several years and seen that it works.

That aquarium is very inspirational! Before I saw it I had been thinking about the same thing only with the back flow going behind a vertical wall. But before I set up something like that I want to experiment with an ordinary aquarium where the flow goes one way in the middle of the aquarium, and back along both sides. I really don't know what works so I just need to make a test setup and experiment with it.

Hi folks! The eggs look like Purpursnäcka (Nucella lapillus). It is called "dog whelk" in english: Dog whelk eggs google search Sorry for the lack of posts. I don't have time/space for aquariums for the time being. So there won't be any new ones soon. Algae aquariums are difficult. You need correct flow, correct temperature cycle through the year, correct light cycle through the year and nutrients. Flow is the most difficult. Large algae are made to live in the waves and move constantly with the waves. My dream for the coming year is to buy some new expensive flow pumps and set up a tank with plastic macro algae and freshwater to do flow experiments to see if it is possible to create something that looks like natural slow, silent waves. We will see if I get the time for it. I will let you know here if anything happens!

Sorry, but the large test aquarium started leaking a few weeks ago. It was a very old aquarium. So I just had to shut the whole test setup down. So now I don't have any aquariums. Unfortunately I think it will be some time before I have time and space to set up a new aquarium. I don't lack money for a modest system, but we have such a small apartment and work + home projects + small kid takes absolutely all time, and more. But I will definitely use that sort of phytoplankton setup in the future. I found that I didn't even need to use nutrients as long as I was feeding the main aquarium well. And the dosing setup with a maxijet didn't fail me once in 4 years. Those pumps are gold.

About sealing double glass: Silicone and anything else you can buy in wet form lets through water vapor. I tried to buy this: Orgavyl butyl sealant It seems to keep out water vapor well. I have tested it on a glass jar outside for more than a year. The glass jar has silica desiccant in it and a hygrometer. The moisture level inside is still 10%. I also tried MS polymer in wet form on another jar. But that went up to 35% quickly and then 50% after a few months. The same bad result with wet butyl paste from Biltema.

Slanten, I have lost sleep and pulled hair over refrigeration questions before, so it wouldn't be any new :-p. Mikoto, actually, if the refrigerant gets too cold in the "hot" part of the circuit the chiller keeps running almost without cooling. The reason is purely technical: There is a so called "metering device" that regulates flow of refrigerant from the hot to the cold side. A high pressure is needed on the hot side to push refrigerant through it. When the temperature gets too low, the pressure also gets low and almost no refrigerant gets through and the chiller doesn't chill. The compressor just pumps vacuum and does little useful. If one had a very good metering device like an advanced temperature adjusted reduction valve it would still work. But in practice that won't come with aquarium chillers. Large air conditioners have them though.

Hi Slanten, I have been twisting my brain around this for many days! I have been curious about this myself. It is a difficult question. The thing that is complicated is: What happens when the temperature goes down to -20C? First, the actual refrigeration, disregarding technical issues with the compressor. After much thinking I came to the conclusion that if the temperature gets low enough then the chiller would probably still work, but at a very reduced effect. That is, if the oil and electric system could handle it. The thing that is really problematic is the compressor oil. It is not made for low temperatures. Look what they say about air conditioners (that are very similar): http://www.webhvac.com/2012/01/will-running-an-air-conditioner-in-cold-weather-damage-it/ So I would not place the chiller in any room that gets colder than 5C.

I don't remember the pH in the main aquariums. But I think it was fairly high. In the phytoplankton refugium it is typically between 8 and 9(!). It is because of the photosynthesis that takes away CO2 from the water. Photosynthesis is an effective way to get higer pH.

If you already use ozone and activated carbon and the water is clear, then I don't know if it would help to change carbon. I was thinking that you could see brown color on the water. Granular bitumenous carbon looks like small stones (typically about 5 mm in diameter) and is made from bitumen (asfalt). It is one of the best carbons for aquariums since the pores are large and can take in the large organic molecules in water. It is also hard, which prevents dust. Another type that is good is lignite (a type of coal found in mines), but it is softer and gives more dust. Some of the cheaper types on the market are supposed to be pellets made from coconut. Those are made for air filtration and have very small pores, too small for large water borne molecules. But I don't really know what brands or how common it is. I have just decided to go with bitumen because it is user friendly, easy to get, not too expensive and recommended by "Boomer" who is the carbon guru in the american reefing community.

Hi slanten, here is a tip I gave to someone else recently. I haven't tried it myself though: Get some high quality bitumenous GAC like a 1650 gram box of Fluval carbon. There is a bag in the box. Fill about 0.5 liters of carbon in the bag, rinse well, and hang in the sump for about 4 days. Then change the carbon and hang for another 4 days. Do this until you can see the brown color in the water disappear. If the brown humic substances from algea/food etc cause the pH drop, the pH should rise. You don't need a reactor for the carbon, the substances will diffuse into it. Please respond in swedish. I understand swedish, I just can't write it.

I really like this experiment slanten! I have been thinking about doing something similar. I would use an SDS+ drill hammer and drill a 5mm hole in the rocks and hang them straight from a rope in mid water at various depths. Don't know much about spawning seasons unfortunately. But I guess late winter, just as the algae bloom comes would be a good time.