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norskfisk

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  • First name
    Jon Olav
  • City
    Norge
  • Akvarievolym
    320
  • Ljusuppsättning
    T5 lysrör
  • Använder du skummare
    Nej
  • Mitt huvudsakliga intresse för karet är
    Kemi och biologi
  • Använder du Osmosvatten
    Nej
  • Har du sump
    Nej
  • Kör du med sand på botten
    Ja
  • Använder du UV-C
    Nej
  • Använder du Ozon
    Ja
  • Använder du zeolitbaserad metod
    Nej

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  1. They are copepods, yes. These are probably in the order harpacticoida. They ate micro algae growing on the glass in my algae refugiums.
  2. Hey, the algae are Swedish! Bought on Biltema and Clas Ohlson!
  3. Water gas and other gasses pass through anything with solvent (even water) in it while it dried. You can glue the glass in place with silicone, but use this as a sealant outside: Solvent free windscreen sealant I have actually tested this over several years and seen that it works.
  4. That aquarium is very inspirational! Before I saw it I had been thinking about the same thing only with the back flow going behind a vertical wall. But before I set up something like that I want to experiment with an ordinary aquarium where the flow goes one way in the middle of the aquarium, and back along both sides. I really don't know what works so I just need to make a test setup and experiment with it.
  5. Hi folks! The eggs look like Purpursnäcka (Nucella lapillus). It is called "dog whelk" in english: Dog whelk eggs google search Sorry for the lack of posts. I don't have time/space for aquariums for the time being. So there won't be any new ones soon. Algae aquariums are difficult. You need correct flow, correct temperature cycle through the year, correct light cycle through the year and nutrients. Flow is the most difficult. Large algae are made to live in the waves and move constantly with the waves. My dream for the coming year is to buy some new expensive flow pumps and set up a tank with plastic macro algae and freshwater to do flow experiments to see if it is possible to create something that looks like natural slow, silent waves. We will see if I get the time for it. I will let you know here if anything happens!
  6. Sorry, but the large test aquarium started leaking a few weeks ago. It was a very old aquarium. So I just had to shut the whole test setup down. So now I don't have any aquariums. Unfortunately I think it will be some time before I have time and space to set up a new aquarium. I don't lack money for a modest system, but we have such a small apartment and work + home projects + small kid takes absolutely all time, and more. But I will definitely use that sort of phytoplankton setup in the future. I found that I didn't even need to use nutrients as long as I was feeding the main aquarium well. And the dosing setup with a maxijet didn't fail me once in 4 years. Those pumps are gold.
  7. About sealing double glass: Silicone and anything else you can buy in wet form lets through water vapor. I tried to buy this: Orgavyl butyl sealant It seems to keep out water vapor well. I have tested it on a glass jar outside for more than a year. The glass jar has silica desiccant in it and a hygrometer. The moisture level inside is still 10%. I also tried MS polymer in wet form on another jar. But that went up to 35% quickly and then 50% after a few months. The same bad result with wet butyl paste from Biltema.
  8. Slanten, I have lost sleep and pulled hair over refrigeration questions before, so it wouldn't be any new :-p. Mikoto, actually, if the refrigerant gets too cold in the "hot" part of the circuit the chiller keeps running almost without cooling. The reason is purely technical: There is a so called "metering device" that regulates flow of refrigerant from the hot to the cold side. A high pressure is needed on the hot side to push refrigerant through it. When the temperature gets too low, the pressure also gets low and almost no refrigerant gets through and the chiller doesn't chill. The compressor just pumps vacuum and does little useful. If one had a very good metering device like an advanced temperature adjusted reduction valve it would still work. But in practice that won't come with aquarium chillers. Large air conditioners have them though.
  9. Hi Slanten, I have been twisting my brain around this for many days! I have been curious about this myself. It is a difficult question. The thing that is complicated is: What happens when the temperature goes down to -20C? First, the actual refrigeration, disregarding technical issues with the compressor. After much thinking I came to the conclusion that if the temperature gets low enough then the chiller would probably still work, but at a very reduced effect. That is, if the oil and electric system could handle it. The thing that is really problematic is the compressor oil. It is not made for low temperatures. Look what they say about air conditioners (that are very similar): http://www.webhvac.com/2012/01/will-running-an-air-conditioner-in-cold-weather-damage-it/ So I would not place the chiller in any room that gets colder than 5C.
  10. I don't remember the pH in the main aquariums. But I think it was fairly high. In the phytoplankton refugium it is typically between 8 and 9(!). It is because of the photosynthesis that takes away CO2 from the water. Photosynthesis is an effective way to get higer pH.
  11. If you already use ozone and activated carbon and the water is clear, then I don't know if it would help to change carbon. I was thinking that you could see brown color on the water. Granular bitumenous carbon looks like small stones (typically about 5 mm in diameter) and is made from bitumen (asfalt). It is one of the best carbons for aquariums since the pores are large and can take in the large organic molecules in water. It is also hard, which prevents dust. Another type that is good is lignite (a type of coal found in mines), but it is softer and gives more dust. Some of the cheaper types on the market are supposed to be pellets made from coconut. Those are made for air filtration and have very small pores, too small for large water borne molecules. But I don't really know what brands or how common it is. I have just decided to go with bitumen because it is user friendly, easy to get, not too expensive and recommended by "Boomer" who is the carbon guru in the american reefing community.
  12. Hi slanten, here is a tip I gave to someone else recently. I haven't tried it myself though: Get some high quality bitumenous GAC like a 1650 gram box of Fluval carbon. There is a bag in the box. Fill about 0.5 liters of carbon in the bag, rinse well, and hang in the sump for about 4 days. Then change the carbon and hang for another 4 days. Do this until you can see the brown color in the water disappear. If the brown humic substances from algea/food etc cause the pH drop, the pH should rise. You don't need a reactor for the carbon, the substances will diffuse into it. Please respond in swedish. I understand swedish, I just can't write it.
  13. I really like this experiment slanten! I have been thinking about doing something similar. I would use an SDS+ drill hammer and drill a 5mm hole in the rocks and hang them straight from a rope in mid water at various depths. Don't know much about spawning seasons unfortunately. But I guess late winter, just as the algae bloom comes would be a good time.
  14. norskfisk

    Triton Lab

    Is there any hope for us norwegians when it comes to Triton lab tests?
  15. SAN og akryl slipper gjennom fuktighet. Biltema SAN har UV filter som gjør det mørkt og uegnet til akvarium uansett.

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