PAR bildtråden

[PatriksS]

Våren är nog snart här, vi går mot ljusare tider, LEDs kommer mer och mer och vad kan vara bättre än att posta lite bilder som visar ljusstyrkan på olika ljuskällor? Jag plöjde igenom ett antal trådar på nätet när jag var nyfiken hur mycket par som olika belysningsalternativ ger.

De flesta vet säkert redan vad PAR är. Likaså att de flesta sps-koraller generellt sett behöver cirka 200 - 300 PAR/PPFD/ eller mE/m2 som når korallen. Nedan är utdrag från trådar med bilder som visar PAR i olika setups.

Tecknet "" betyder inch och är 2,54 cm

Gallon är 3,74 liter, grovt avrundat till 4 liter.

Out of curiosity, I decided to measure the lighting levels within the greenhouse at Harbor Aquatics during a club field trip back in March 2003. Outside, the light levels were 1330 mE/m2. Inside the greenhouse, the light levels were substantially reduced due to the glass chosen. On the edge of the square tank, light intensity measured 550 mE/m2. Just under the water’s surface, it was 458 mE/m2.

In the large rock tanks, light levels were still at 550. Just below the surface, we saw roughly 460 mE/m2. On the bottom of the tank, under approximately 15” of water, the light levels were still a pretty substantial 354 mE/m2.

Here is a picture of Harbor’s greenhouse setup for those not familiar with it:

Tank setup #1

Doug Lehman’s 75 gallon system

June 2002

System: 4 x 96W Compact FL bulbs.

Bulbs 5.5” off the water.

Reflector: Standard flat mirrored retrofit kit

After lighting upgrade

Doug Lehman’s 75 gallon system

August 2002

System: 2 x 175W bulbs, with 2 x 110W VHO Actinics.

Bulbs 5.5” off the water.

Reflector: Standard flat mirrored retrofit kit

Tank setup #2

Doug Lehman’s 125 gallon system

June 2002

System: 6 x 55W CF tubes. Consists of 10,000K, 6,700K and ‘Actinic’.

Bulbs 5.5” off the water.

Reflector: Standard flat mirrored retrofit kit

Tank setup #3

Adam Schneider’s 75 gallon system

2 x 110W VHO with single 250W MH

At the time, I believe the reflector consisted of aluminum foil…

Tank setup #4

Howard Allan’s 120 gallon tank.

Lighting: 2 x 400W Ushio bulbs with 3 x 110W VHO actinics.

Brightest tank of any I measured.

Under the MH bulbs, just above the water surface, PAR was 1200+.

LED-lit nano tank at IMAC

Tullio Dell Aquilla had a nano tank set up in his room at the IMAC conference.

The tank was lit by just 3 LEDs installed in a hood meant for a compact fluorescent tube. The reflector surface was flat, meaning that the LED essentially acted as a ‘bare bulb’ setup. With proper reflectors, these numbers should go up quite a bit. Total wattage for these three bulbs: 13 Watts

Tullio did have some LED bulbs installed in reflectors as well:

Bulb color 1 inch from unit 6.5” from unit White 270 mE/m2 11-12 mE/m2 Blue 250 mE/m2 9 mE/m2

IMAC 120 gallon tank

Sunlight Supply’s 120 gallon tank

Lighting: Two 250W bulbs, one a Mogul Ushio 10K and the other a double-ended Ushio 10K.

The double-ended bulb was lit by an HQI ballast. The fixture seemed to put out significantly more heat than the mogul one. It also put out more light, approximately 10-12% more.

Bulb Intensity at approximately 6.5” from fixture Mogul 1550 mE/m2 HQI 1750 mE/m2

The bulbs were suspended at different distances from the top of the tank, partially to show off the suspension mechanism, but also to try to make the light fields even. They did surprising well, with the light levels being rather even at the bottom of the tank.

Källa: http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/feature.htm

[PatriksS]

Lite mer

The top readings were taken just below the surface. All of the other readings were taken directly below the reflectors where possible. Most of the other readings show the depth where it was recorded and the number is shown at the relative position (left to right) where it was recorded. These readings are simply the PAR number the probe showed at that spot in the aquarium.

This is a 7g Mini Bow with a Sunpod 70w HQI fixture on the mounting legs. This was using the Ushio 70w 20K lamp which is shows higher PAR than the stock 14K Current USA lamp. Lamps about 5" off the water.

24g Nano Cube with a 150w HQI Sunpod. No glass cover, Current USA 14k stock lamp (less than 3 months old). Note the nano cube glass cover reduces these reading by about 15%. Bulbs 4" above water.

Custom 24g tank with 150w HQI Sundial w/ 2x32w dual actinic PC (214w total). 150w HQI lamp is 14,000K Ushio. Electronic ballast and all bulbs are less than 3 months old. Bulbs 6" above water.

This is a 30g Cube (Freshwater tank...I know!) with 2x36w compact fluorescent retrofit (72w total), WH5 ballast, reflectors with one 50/50 and one 6,700K bulb (bulbs over 1 year old). This is basically what the 24g Nano cube has. Bulbs 4" above water.

At the far end of the low side and for comparison - This is a 15g with a standard fluorescent strip light that comes stock with most starter aquarium packages. 18w T8 tube AGA stock lamp (broad spectrum daylight). Bulbs 3" above water.

On the extreme high end for comparision - 125g SPS reef with three 250w Ocean Light Pendants. 14K Ushio HQI lamps are less than 3 months old. Ballasts over a year old. Two 110w VHO Actinic 6-12 months old and two 80w T5 Actinic Blue 3-6 months old. Bulbs 8" above water.

Not any T5 nano reefs but I do have a couple larger examples.

72g with 5x54w T5, TEK reflectors, Actinic+, Aquablue, Midday, Pure Actinic, AquaBlue and 1x39w T5, TEK reflectors, Actinic+. All ballasts are Advance spec ballast. These are mounted in a fan cooled canopy about 5" off the water.

125g with 4 rows of 2x39w with a mix of TEK and Ice Cap reflectors (312w Total). The Geisemann bulbs and Advance ballasts are less than 3 months old. Actinic +, Midday, Aquablue, Pure Actinic. Fan cooled canopy with bulbs 5" above water.

Källa: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=168811

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[PatriksS]

"This test has no claim to absolute validity, because of many factors that have helped to build it. But can also be of interest to the measured values we have seen and certainly that should be interpreted. We were a group of friends and aquarium keepers that we were not expecting this test and then we had not even thought to ask what to do in order to better understand the interactions between the various solutions available to us.

To begin, we took two tables and place over them a glass plate on which we have laid the various lamps.

The measurement was carried out on the floor, about 78 cm away from the glass.

The two HQI bulbs were new and were extracted from their respective boxes and then mounted. The measurement lasted for about 10 minutes until the outcome of the gauge of PAR was stable, and therefore it is assumed that the measured value was more or less than the reference.

We started with the Diamond Lumenarc III in which we put a light bulb from BLV 400W E40, I do not know at this time the type of ballast used, if I’ll come to know or if someone will tell me I’ll incorporate into the article.

The measurement result was as follows:

78 cm from glass, not in a center position, the Lumenarc III and BLV 400W provided a measurement of PAR of 307 µmoli/M2/s. Unfortunately I have not other photos, but I can assure that the value was fairly constant even moving the meter PAR.

Then we connected the E-power, with bulb Elos Spectra 10,000 ° K. Note that there were two glass between the bulb and the area of measurement.

Then we connected the LED lamp E-lite, with 18 LED 3w for a total of about 64w. In this case there were two glass between the LED and the area of measurement.

Finally a commercial lamp with 39W pl, of which I don’t know other features. Also here we had two glasses from lamp to floor.

I was surprised by the results. It’s true that long ago I made a test between Lumenarc III and E-power 150w and the values were comparable, but I was expecting more difference between two such different wattages. Certainly we must consider that the Lumenarc parable has a wider range of lighting, while the ePower closer, and throughout his parable, at least in space between the tables, around 50 cm, the value was stable while the E-Power had less power in the center as it had the edge. But in any case the value at the center was equal to that of BLV Lumenarc and at the edges the value was much higher with a light bulb that has 37.5% less power.

It would be nice to repeat the test as a function of parameters tested, with different bulbs, and then drawing an hypothetical area of coverage … but the test done in my opinion is very indicative."

Källa: http://www.danireef.com/2009/02/18/lumenarc-iii-vs-e-power-vs-e-lite-vs-pl/#lumenarcepowere

[PatriksS]

"I received the MaxSpect G2-160W and hung them 12" above the tank. Without optics, I'll probably need to lower them, but for comparison, they are hung the same height above the water as the AquaIllumination.

(sorry for the poor quality photo, I've not yet recovered my DSL.)

In this photo, the two AI units (70W ea.) are running 100% Blue and 75% white. The Maxspect (G2-160W) is at 100% on all LEDS resulting in the following measurements...

At 12" (water surface)

AI - 1105

MXS - 350

Placing the sensor 6" directly below each light with both units at max output resulted in the following...

AI - 1650

MXS - 840

*These measurements are probably +-10% as I haven't yet perfected a standardized way to hold the sensor.

Although the Maxspect "look" much brighter, the AIs (even with the white LEDS reduced to 75%) are putting out far more PAR and the impact of the 40 degree optics are apparent."

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197

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[PatriksS]

[AquaIllumination]

100% White 100% Blue

40% White 60% Blue

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=8

[PatriksS]

Apogeee QMSS-E par meter. 5'X2'X2' tank using a pair of full size LBs. 400W 12K Reeflux at around 3 months old using Coralvue electronic ballast. Lamps are 10.5" above the waterline and the meter maxes out at the surface.

Here many other measure PAR photo I found here in the lumen bright monster post

Quote:

Raised the lights to where the lamp is at 16" The dark areas in the middle got brighter and I like how it looks now. New par readings:

Here is a shot with a black background - it is under 400w however.

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=2

[PatriksS]

Observera att det finns erfarenhet av blekning av sps under LEDs:

"I replaced about 200 watts of MH/T5s with about 70 watts of LEDs (2 AIs running at about 50%) and initially bleached everything. The SPS on the top of the tank quickly bleached, and the LPS on the bottom went pale. The SPS that survived (few ), have taken a long time to recover. The LPS bounced back quickly (a few weeks.) My greatest coloration problem is with Red SPS (ORA Red Planet is my challenge piece.) I'm able to get great coloration out of LPS, including Acans. Here are a few photos of LPS loving LED life...

I'm still learning the PAR needs of specific corals - It's compounded by the fact PAR meters don't do a great job of measuring the very blue spectrum. i.e. I've had SPS thrive under 500 PAR MH, yet quickly bleach-out under 450 LED. I also was experimenting with MB7 and carbon dosing at the time, which added another variable in determining what was impacting coloration."

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=11

Ändrat 6 mars 2011 av PatriksS

[PatriksS]

Lite värdefulla synpunkter från killen som kör LEDs i form av AquaIllumination Sol (med mina småmarkeringar) :

"I've been 100% LED for about a year, and I'm still learning and adjusting, looking for the optimal levels (as are most that made the early jump to LEDs.) I adjust intensities every couple weeks, and often rotate stock between the DT and FT to see what changes occur between the AI and Maxspect LED coloration. At present, I'm at 36%W/100%B on 2 SOL White units raised 17.5" ATWL. My Acans are 100~150 PAR. My Purple Bonsai also lightened significantly but is steadily recovering from it's near-death bleaching event. As for Red Planet, mine is mostly green with just a hint of pink, although it is just now beginning to improve.

Coloration has been the only issue (aside from the initial bleaching due to my ignorance of the PAR output of LEDs.) I've experienced great growth rates from both SPS and LPS.

Each time I've lowered light output, coloration has improved overall (although that could be anecdotal and a result of the corals continuing to recover.) I'm watching for the point that no further improvement is gained at lesser light levels, then I'll very slowly work on increasing intensity.

As for the Red spectrum, there's much debate regarding whats actually used in the photosynthesis process, vs reflective light. Some studies show red actually retards growth and coloration (most red is absorbed before it reaches the reef.) Some suggest that UV might be the answer, but based on what I've read, Corals pigmentation response to UV is clear, and does not improve coloration. There was even a recent study suggesting that some Zooxanthellae may use IR... At present, the answer is unclear.

My "best guess" is along the lines of what AI has done with the SOL Blue pucks, combining the CW/B/RB. I've also seen some new testing using neutral white, adding in a bit of red and cyan that initially looks interesting (reflective) - it's just too soon to know the impact on growth and coloration. I have ordered optics and a variety of newly released color LEDS (red, cyan, near UV...) for the Maxspect that will allow me to continue "playing" with color variations.

This is both the boon and curse of LEDs. We're on the cutting edge, just past alpha testing. We know they are hugely efficient at growing corals, we just need to better understand the spectral needs and do some fine tuning to gain the maximum coloration. I expect we'll learn much more over the next couple of years as the DIY pioneers uncover the answers.

1) Is Par=Par? By that i mean is 200Par from MH the same as 200Par from a LED setup? If not, why so?

As I understand it - Yes, PAR is PAR. There is also an argument for the use of PUR measurements which purportedly further define the light absorbed by algal and plant pigments, but I know very little about what role PUR plays, nor how to measure it. IMHO, the challenge we have is two fold.

a) PAR meters underestimate the amount of PAR emitted by many LEDs. The error rate increases with the "bluer" the light gets. Sanjay had told me a good estimation was ~15% - I beleive it might actually be higher (20%~25%)

LEDs are very efficient at producing PAR, with the vast majority of the light being in the 400-700nm range however - to our "eye", at equal PAR LEDs don't look nearly as "bright" as MH or T5. This results in the hobbyist increasing the LED output trying to match the "appearance" of their previous lights...and cooking most everything in their tank (I did this twice.)

I believe these two issues combine to create many of the initial coloration complaints from those switching to LEDs.

2)What is a good par to shoot for with LED's when trying to grow SPS? I see a lot of ideas but anyone actually done any studies or have some success and can post their results?

This is tricky - lots of variable. Different species of SPS demand different amounts of PAR. Water quality plays the largest role with water movement and light spectrum also being a factor. In the most general of terms, I'm presently shooting for measured PAR of 100~150 on the substrate and 350~400 on the top SPS shelves. This is much less than I initially believed ideal, and my opinion likely will evolve over time as I gain additional experience with my LEDs.

A few caveats...Please note, my current tank is new, having only been up for slightly more than a year. As a result - I have more variables than a long-established tank. Most importantly, I'm certainly no expert on lighting or marine biology and have no formal education in either field. My opinions are just that, opinions and are subjective based on my non-scientific observations. So please take my comments and conclusions with a grain of salt.

I'm just a hobbyist who's enjoying the learning curve."

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=11

Ändrat 6 mars 2011 av PatriksS

[PatriksS]

I bilderna nedan ser Maxspect så hiskeligt onaturligt fult lila/rosa i mina ögon.

"Please excuse the current condition of the tank - It's been more of a test tank than display tank for the past year with lot's of LED and carbon dosing testing (including the 2 significant over PAR/photo-inhibition events detailed earlier in this thread...

*Note - the 24" and 30" measurements are slightly occluded by aquascape and offset about 6" toward the front of the tank. Perhaps the most interesting find was the SOl Blues delivered slightly more PAR at depth. I can only guess this is due to better penetration of the blue spectrum.

SOL White = 0% white, 100% blue vs. SOL Blue = 0% Blue, 100% white.

SOL White = 100% white, 0% blue vs. SOL Blue = 100% Blue, 0% white.

All AIs at 100% compared to Maxspect G2-160 at 100%

SOL White = 0% white, 100% blue vs. SOL Blue = 0% Blue, 100% white with G2 for comparison.

SOL White = 100% white, 0% blue vs. SOL Blue = 100% Blue, 0% white with G2 for comparison.

100% blue output of 2X SOL Blue units - It's nearly impossible to show the "pop" of these, the color is far more intense than shown in the photo. You can also tell how purple in appearance the Semi-LED Royal Blues are in the G2.

I took photos and PAR measurements at other power settings, but it's difficult to distinguish much difference in the photos. The PAR falloff at lesser power settings was mostly linear (50% power yielded about 50% of the reported PAR.) Measurements taken using an Apogee MQ-200 with the electric light settings. Due to variations in measurement accuracy (i.e. hand shake , slight rotation of sensor, rough water surface...) I'd estimate the margin of error at plus/minus ~5% "

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=14

[PatriksS]

"I'm currently running 65% B & 40% W and it's more than enough PAR for SPS (350) on top and acans at bottom (125). I have 2 blue soles over a 36x20x20 at 12" above waterline.

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=23

[PatriksS]

Originally Posted by wickedfish

I mentioned I bleached 3 expensive frags. Well, semi bleached them and now I am finding myself turning these suckers down at peak. To less than 60% for both. I too am at 7" above water.

Do yourself a huge favor RED chart map at different %'s. I charted my par every 5% increment but at 15" off the water.

I wish I would have done it at the 7" but the homies par meter is out of commision, and I am lost. I have since pulled the corals and moved them. The Multi colored turoki is gonna have to tough it out its completely encrusted on the rock.

This perfectly illustrates the recurring theme of this thread. Even with access to a PAR meter, it's easy to over do it. This is due to 2 factors,

PAR meters underestimate the PAR value of the very blue component of LED light. Sanjay had estimated about -~15%. Based on my observations and depending on the color output, I've come to believe it may be even higher with very blue light (perhaps -20%~-25% or more.)

Perceived Brightness - At equal PAR, LED light appears "less bright" when compared to MH or T5.

LEDs are very efficient at generating PAR. The vast majority of total light output falls within the PAR range (400nm-700nm.) Light at the low-end of the spectrum (blue) doesn't appear as bright to the human eye as higher nanometer light (reds), even though very little PAR is created by higher nanometer light (above 700nm.) Along the lines of a picture is worth a thousand words...

Here are spectral plots of the SOL white and SOL blue Aquaillumination LEDs. Note that the vast majority of the light output is within 400-700nm (it's all PAR) and that very little light in the red range is generated. Tons of PAR, but it's perceived to be less bright as similar PAR light from T5 or MH bulbs.

Here's a spectral plot of a Giesmann Pure Actinic T5 bulb. This bulb peaks at around 412nm and is very blue/purple. It does not however appear to be very bright as the vast majority of it's light output is very low nanometer light.

In contrast, here's a Giesemann Midday Sun T5 bulb. This bulb is about 6000K in color and generates much higher nanometer light than either the AIs' or the actinic bulb, therefor appearing to be much brighter at equal wattage.

This is why it's so important to start with lower power settings and increase slowly, watching for signs on photoinhibition.

I'm not just the photoinhibition spokesman - I'm also a client

I've done this TWICE and worse yet, the second time was after I had acquired a PAR meter. I simply didn't beleive/understand how Acropora could by over-illuminated by less than 500 par when coming from "seemingly" similar values under MH - especially as it just didn't "look" to be that bright.

Learn from my mistakes - Start low and increase slow."

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=25

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[PatriksS]

"In reality, those photos do a very poor job of showcasing how well LEDs "activate" corals. It's very difficult to show the "pop" under blue, LED actinic lighting. Here's a few better examples...

Raspberry Limeade

Fruit Loops Acan Lord

Chong Bongs

Emeralds on fire

I've heard a few different names for these - Most seem to use "Bloodshots"

Mohawks

Strawberry Wines

Rainbow Acan Lord"

The Acans seem to really love basking under the Blue and Royal Blue LEDs - here's a few more...

Mint Rainbow Acan Lord

Orange Crush Acan e.

Pink Princess Acan Lord

Alien Eyes Acan e.

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=27

[Reuben]

Gallon är 3,74 liter, grovt avrundat till 4 liter.

Riktigt bra initiativ, tänk bara på att det är skillnad på en amerikansk gallon och en brittisk gallon så folk som lägger in mer, kolla efter att inte sidan är brittisk.

[PatriksS]

Japp, bra point där. De länkar jag postat är nog samtliga från US of A, men kan vara bra att veta i övrigt om man är inne och snurrar på engelska sidor.

[_Manne_]

Det nästa sista inlägget nu här med alla bilder på korallerna , vet du vilken ramp det handlar om ?

Ganska "kul" o se AI o maxen i så stor skillnad när det är samma vita cree diod i båda.. Det man gjort i maxen är ju att addera fyra violetta dioder för att trigga fram fler färger helt enkelt..

Mvh manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PatriksS]

Om du menar bilden nedan så är det AI.

"I'm currently running 65% B & 40% W and it's more than enough PAR for SPS (350) on top and acans at bottom (125). I have 2 blue soles over a 36x20x20 at 12" above waterline.

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197&page=23

[PatriksS]

Förresten, Manne, kan man tejpa för de lila ledsen på Maxen med typ eltejp för att få bort det rosafärgade skimret?

Det är i alla fall kul att se vad optics kan göra för belysningen. En AI på ynka 70 watt levererar mer än dubbelt så mycket PAR än 160 watt Maxspect, Skillnaden blir än större ju längre bort från ljuskällan man mäter:

"

I received the MaxSpect G2-160W and hung them 12" above the tank. Without optics, I'll probably need to lower them, but for comparison, they are hung the same height above the water as the AquaIllumination.

(sorry for the poor quality photo, I've not yet recovered my DSL.)

In this photo, the two AI units (70W ea.) are running 100% Blue and 75% white. The Maxspect (G2-160W) is at 100% on all LEDS resulting in the following measurements...

At 12" (water surface)

AI - 1105

MXS - 350

Placing the sensor 6" directly below each light with both units at max output resulted in the following...

AI - 1650

MXS - 840

*These measurements are probably +-10% as I haven't yet perfected a standardized way to hold the sensor.

Although the Maxspect "look" much brighter, the AIs (even with the white LEDS reduced to 75%) are putting out far more PAR and the impact of the 40 degree optics are apparent.

This photo shows the MXS at 100% on all LEDS and the AIs at 44% white / 100% blue. At these settings, measuring 7" below each light - The AI puts out about 1425 PAR and the MXS about 700 PAR."

Källa: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197

[mr cheezy]

åhh nu måste jag låna hem en PAR mätare och se hur min sfiligoi står sig mot AI och maxspect.

Men det verkar som sanjay yoshi hade lite rätt i att prata skit om kinabyggda led?

[_Manne_]

Om du menar bilden nedan så är det AI.

Jag menade inlägget med alla närbilderna på korallerna med dom roliga namnen , vilken belysning är det till just det karet ?

Mvh Manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[_Manne_]

åhh nu måste jag låna hem en PAR mätare och se hur min sfiligoi står sig mot AI och maxspect.

Men det verkar som sanjay yoshi hade lite rätt i att prata skit om kinabyggda led?

Sanjay hade testat semi varianten med två 30w chip , jag var där också.. Dvs inte cree som tillverkare.

Har två cree maxar som jag är nöjd med men har ett kar till så hade AI varit intressant pga dimningen, ghlen har jag redan till styrningen av en ev AI , dock behöver jag 6 moduler o pris därefter.

Mvh manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[_Manne_]

Med lite meck kan man säkert skärma av dom violetta, eller så helt enkelt beställer man fyra blå eller vita reservchip o ersätter dom helt.

Mvh manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PatriksS]

Jag menade inlägget med alla närbilderna på korallerna med dom roliga namnen , vilken belysning är det till just det karet ?

Mvh Manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jaha, ja det är fortfarande AI från killen som startade hela den där AI-tråden.

Hade jag fått välja hade jag valt AI Sol Blue som har kombinationen 1 cree white, 1 cree blue och 1 cree royalblue.

[PatriksS]

åhh nu måste jag låna hem en PAR mätare och se hur min sfiligoi står sig mot AI och maxspect.

Men det verkar som sanjay yoshi hade lite rätt i att prata skit om kinabyggda led?

Det vore toppen om du kunde posta lite PAR-värden från Sfiligoi, Robin.

Jag vet inte vad skillnaden beror - om det är bara optics eller något annat - men skillnaden är uppenbar. Detta utan att det kostar mer för en AI än för en Maxspect. En AI Blue för ca 629 USD, dvs. 3 995 SEK + moms + frakt torde i alla fall inte bli dyrare än en Maxspect Cree 160w för 6 000 SEK. Samtidigt som man får mer än dubbla PAR med AI och ljuset är mera fokuserat in i karet än på väggarna.

Frågan är bara om AI kan köras på 220V eller om den är anpassad för USA och deras 110V?

[_Manne_]

Det vore toppen om du kunde posta lite PAR-värden från Sfiligoi, Robin.

Jag vet inte vad skillnaden beror - om det är bara optics eller något annat - men skillnaden är uppenbar. Detta utan att det kostar mer för en AI än för en Maxspect. En AI Blue för ca 629 USD, dvs. 3 995 SEK + moms + frakt torde i alla fall inte bli dyrare än en Maxspect Cree 160w för 6 000 SEK. Samtidigt som man får mer än dubbla PAR med AI och ljuset är mera fokuserat in i karet än på väggarna.

Frågan är bara om AI kan köras på 220V eller om den är anpassad för USA och deras 110V?

Dom går o köra direkt i våra uttag med rätt kabel..

Maxen sprider ljuset 120 grader totalt. AI 40 grader så självklart är par värdena helt orimiliga i förhållande till varandra.. Vill man ha fetar par med maxen , köp ett optik kit.. Handlar bra om hur litet fokus man vill ha på ljuset i från dioderna.

Mvh manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lasse]

Maxen sprider ljuset 120 grader totalt. AI 40 grader så självklart är par värdena helt orimiliga i förhållande till varandra.. Vill man ha fetar par med maxen , köp ett optik kit.. Handlar bra om hur litet fokus man vill ha på ljuset i från dioderna.

Mvh manne

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mycket viktig kommentar att ha i tanke när man jämför olika ramper av LED typ med hänsyn på PAR värde. Ingen annan ljuskälla är så koncentrerad och med optik så blir den än mera fokuserad.

MVH Lasse